Zanurzenie w historię i przyrodę nieistniejącej wsi łemkowskiej – Świerzowa Ruska
Jeśli lubisz spacery, które nie tylko pozwalają naładować akumulatory w otoczeniu przyrody, ale też wciągają w opowieści z przeszłości, Świerzowa Ruska to miejsce, które musisz odwiedzić. To nieistniejąca już wieś łemkowska, gdzie przeszłość zdaje się przenikać każdą ścieżkę, każdy kamienny krzyż i każdy skrawek zieleni.
Punkt przymiarki: zanurzenie w przeszłość
Spacerując ścieżką przyrodniczo-kulturową, dosłownie stąpasz po historii. Dawne cerkwisko, kamienne nagrobki porośnięte mchem, fragmenty fundamentów domów i stare drzewa owocowe opowiadają o ludziach, którzy niegdyś tworzyli tu swoje życie. Mimo że wieś opustoszała po Akcji Wisła w 1947 roku, jej duch wciąż unosi się w powietrzu.
Zatrzymaj się na chwilę przy tablicy informacyjnej opisującej Łemkowską chyżę – tradycyjny drewniany dom mieszkalno-gospodarczy. Wyobraź sobie codzienność w tej dolinie: dzieci bawiące się na łąkach, dym unoszący się z komina i ludzi pracujących w sadach.
Największe wrażenie robią jednak przydrożne krzyże i kapliczki – małe dzieła sztuki wyrzeźbione w kamieniu, które przetrwały próbę czasu. Większość z nich wyszła spod dłuta Wasyla Graconia z Bartnego – artysty, którego prace znane są na całej Łemkowszczyźnie. Każdy krzyż kryje w sobie historię: modlitwę, nadzieję, żałobę.
W zgodzie z naturą
Ścieżka prowadzi przez malowniczą dolinę potoku Świerzówka, gdzie można obserwować zjawiska erozji rzecznej, sukcesję wtórną i różnorodne zbiorowiska łąkowe. Warto przysiąść na jednej z ławek, wsłuchać się w szum potoku i dać się pochłonąć tej zielonej harmonii. Przyroda tutaj to mistrzyni w przywracaniu wewnętrznej równowagi.
Na trasie znajduje się osiem przystanków edukacyjnych, które pozwalają lepiej zrozumieć historię, kulturę i procesy zachodzące w dolinie. Możesz przy okazji zdobyć Magurską Odznakę Terenową – punkt kontrolny znajduje się właśnie na tej ścieżce.
Praktyczne wskazówki
Przed wyruszeniem w trasę pamiętaj, aby zaopatrzyć się w szczegółowy przewodnik po ścieżce oraz bilety wstępu do Magurskiego Parku Narodowego. Trasa jest oznakowana czerwoną skośną kreską na białym tle, więc łatwo się nią poruszać. Po deszczu może być nieco błotnista, więc solidne buty trekkingowe będą Twoim najlepszym przyjacielem.
Wytyczona trasa została podzielona na 8 przystanków:
- Wieś Świerzowa Ruska;
- Cerkwisko i cmentarz;
- Stary sad;
- Sukcesja wtórna;
- Budownictwo łemkowskie;
- Krzyże i kapliczki;
- Erozja rzeczna;
- Zbiorowiska nieleśne.
Każdy z nich oznaczono cyfrą, jednak na trasie nie znajdziemy opisu poszczególnych przystanków. Najlepiej zrobić zdjęcie początkowej tablicy i wracać do niej przy oznaczeniach na trasie.
CZAS PRZEJŚCIA
2h
DŁUGOŚĆ TRASY
ok. 5 km
SUMA PODEJŚĆ
95 m
Trasa idealna dla dzieci, bez wyraźnych wzniesień. Ani razu nie usłyszeliśmy „mamo, jestem zmęczony” lub „tato, ciężko pod górkę”.
Zaraz po lewej stronie od wejścia do wsi stała niegdyś szkoła, a dalej karczma i sklep. Dzisiaj można znaleźć tam tylko tablicę z wyrytą cyrylicą nazwą wsi.
Nieopodal na wzniesieniu znajdowała się cerkiew prawosławna pod wezwaniem św. Jana Chrzciciela z 1894 roku. Obecnie po tak wspaniałej budowli pozostała tylko cebulasta kopułka inaczej zwana makowniczką. Przesiedlani mieszkańcy w 1945r zabrali ze sobą całe wyposażenie cerkwi.
W tym miejscu znajduje się również cmentarz, a w zasadzie jego pozostałość. Dzisiaj nieliczne nagrobki wyłaniają się z gąszczy roślinności która bezwględnie rości sobie prawa do tego terenu.
W ramach tworzenia ścieżki przyrodniczo-kulturowej powstało wiele mostków. Stanowią one nie lada atrakcję, a szczególnie dla małych zwiedzających którzy jeszcze nie zawracają sobie głowy historią tego miejsca.
Na ścieżce spotkać można sporo piwniczek, które są pozostałością po domostwach i gospodach. Jednak nie myślcie sobie, że o piwniczki można się potknąć. Są one nieco oddalone od wyznaczonej trasy, a przez zagospodarowanie terenu przez naturę mocno wkomponowały się w otaczający krajobraz. To co spotkać można na całej strasie to utrzymane w bardzo kiepsko stanie ruiny a nawet bardziej fundamenty i same piwniczki.
Resztę trzeba sobie niestety wyobrazić.
Magurska Odznaka Terenowa
Ścieżka przyrodniczo-kulturowa „Świerzowa Ruska” jest jedną z 9 tras wytyczonych przez Magurski Park Narodowy. Na każdej z 9 tras, ścieżek czy szczytów znajduje się pieczątka. Zebranie wszystkich upoważnia do odebrania odznaki terenowej. Świetna motywacja szczególnie dla najmłodszych uczestników pieszych wycieczek.
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